It should be remembered that a portion of this country was occupied by Indians as late as the 11th of October, 1845 --- the stipulated time for the white man to take possession of, and the red man to bid adieu to the land of his home and his sires --- he has gone and ere his native hills and dales faded from his view, the white man had staked out his claim and reared his log cabin.
Up to the period of which I speak (October 1845), the whites were not allowed to go farther than Red Rock on the Des Moines; from which point, beginning at the rock, a line was drawn due south to the Missouri river, and due north to the neutral grounds of the Winnebagoes. In 1842, Gov. Chambers affected a treaty, and for the sum of one million of dollars, obtained that valuable tract of country, of which I wish to give the reader some idea.
The New Purchase embraces within its limits the counties of Wapello, Marion, Mahaska, Polk, Dallas, Lucas, Keokuk, Davis, Appanoose, Warren, Wayne, Marshall, Story, Clark(e), Decatur, Boone, Benton, Madison, Monroe, Iowa, Poweshiek, Tama, and Black Hawk; the greater number of which may be classed among the best counties of our State.
I should have stated, that although the whole of the New Purchase was bought in 1842, permission to occupy the whole of it was not allowed at the same time. On the 1st of May 1843, permission was given to settlers to occupy the land east of Red Rock; and on the 11th of October 1845, that portion lying west of the Rock.
It was my good fortune but a short time ago to have the pleasure of an extensive tour through the counties of Wapello, Warren, Mahaska, Warren, and Lucas, and although I had a specific object in view, I at least made a few pencillings on the way.
THE COUNTY OF WAPELLO, immediately west of and adjoining Jefferson, is esteemed one of the best counties in the State. It is moderately rolling, and possesses an excellent soil. It is watered by the Des Moines, which runs in a southeasterly course through the county; besides several smaller streams, among which may be enumerated Compatine (Compentine) Creek, which affords some tolerably good mill sites. The timber is of an excellent growth, and in great abundance. Heavy settlements are already made along the Des Moines river bottoms; and some of the farms would favorably compare with those of the older counties. An excellent road, leading from Keokuk to the Raccoon Forks, runs through this bottom for several miles passing through the towns of Agency City, Ottumwa, Eddyville, Red Rock, &tc. Wapello county has increased in population with astonishing rapidity, numbering in the short space of four years upwards of 5,000 inhabitants. Though not gifted with a prophetic vision, I do not think I would hazard much in saying, that this county will become one of the most populous in the State; and when the Des Moines shall have been improved by means of a slack-water (installation of dams and locks), she will contribute her full quantum of produce and fabrics.
Ottumwa, the county seat of Wapello, is situated upon the Des Moines, and contains many good houses, 3 or 4 stores, two hotels and several mechanic shops. It has a pleasant site, being built against a bluff which gives it an appearance of one of our river towns. It is 28 miles from Fairfield and 6 from Agency City. The Appanoose rapids are at this place; and it appears from a survey made by Mr. D. Armstrong, that 42,000 cubic feet of water passed over the rapids per minute. The fall of these rapids is estimated to be 4 feet in a mile. A large steam grist and saw mill is in operation at the present time, and from what we could ascertain, does a profitable and extensive business.
Agency City, 6 miles from Ottumwa, has a most picturesque and romantic locating, being embosomed, as it were, in the midst of beautiful groves of timber and surrounded by many highly cultivated farms. Had the traveler passed by this place 5 years ago, instead of the smiling village that he now beholds, he would have see the rude wigwam of the Indian, and its no less rude occupant. This place was chosen by Gen. Street, the former Agent of the Sacs and Foxes, as an Indian Agency and trading post; and certainly a more desirable location could not have been chosen. At about half a mile from the town, and upon the premises of the Street family, reposes the remains of the celebrated Indian chief Wapello. There, side by side with the accomplished and cultivated white woman (Mrs. Beach, the daughter of Gen. Street) rests the proud warrior, whose courage and council had, upon more than one occasion, aroused the drooping hopes of his tribe. A neat marble vault is placed over his remains, at the head of which is a pole driven in the ground and decorated with stripes of red and black paint. The following inscription is engraved upon the marble slab: "In memory of Wapello, principal chief of the Sacs and Foxes; born at Prairie du Chien about the year 1787. Died near the forks of the Skunk river March 10th, 1842." The stone was erected by the Sac and Fox nation. Wapello was held in high estimation by his tribe, and he is said to have possessed many good traits of character; at the same time he was a terror to hostile tribes, and a great warrior withall. Agency City contains 3 stores, two groceries, four doctors, several mechanical shops, and a number of substantial dwelling houses. It is three miles from the Des Moines river, and twenty-one from Fairfield, in Jefferson county.
Eddyville is situated in the extreme northwest corner of Wapello county, and immediately upon the left bank of the river. It is a thriving little town, and contains some substantial brick buildings. A steam mill is in operation, and does a lucrative business. There is also an excellent buoy ferry established here, and what is more than many of the river counties can boast of, it is free to all who may wish to cross the river. The river at this point is one hundred and sixty yards wide, and at the lowest stage of water, has three feet in the channel. It would not be surprising if Eddyville would become one of the most important towns on the river. Even now, it is a sort of rendezvous for most of the emigrants and travelers who are journeying west and south of the Des Moines, and this, in connection with its water privileges and the extensive agricultural region around and about it, must and will render it a place of much importance. And who can foretell how far distant the day is when the immense coal banks (needs, I might say) in the vicinity of this place, shall be made to yield their millions of tons of coal per annum --- all concentrated here, for export down the river? The thought may be premature, but time may consummate it.
Eddyville occupies the former site of a large Indian village, and although but seven years have elapsed, not a vestige of it now remains. The town was laid off by T.P. Eddy, Esq., formerly an Indian trader, but now a merchant of St. Louis. The present proprietor is Dr. Ross, who resides in the town. Eddyville contains five stores, two hotels, two blacksmith shops, several mechanical shops, an excellent school, one lawyer, two doctors and between 30 and 40 houses besides several in progress of erection. It is also a post town, and on the main road to the Raccoon Forks of the Des Moines. Taking this county altogether, it may be regarded as one of the best in the State; and although I only adverted to the settlements along the river, there are still many other heavy settlements scattered over the county, particularly in the vicinity of the main road leading from Fairfield to Eddyville.
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MAHASKA COUNTY, lying immediately north of Wapello, may be enumerated as one of the best counties of the "Purchase." it is moderately undulating, has a good soil, but a preponderance of prairie, although a sufficiency of timber for fencing purposes. The timber consists of elm, hickory, oak, and black walnut. It is watered by the Des Moines, which runs through the southwestern part of the county, and on the northern by the Skunk and its tributaries, as also by several inferior streams, among which may be enumerated Cedar, which empties into Skunk, and is a tolerably good mill stream, Much-e-ki-e-nok, a good mill stream the greater part of the year, and Rice, Spring and Thunder Creeks. There are several mills in operation upon these streams at the present time, viz: Comstock's on Skunk & Benedict's a saw mill on Muchekienok. Mr. Duncan has an excellent carding machine, and Mr. Dusenbury, a saw mill upon the last named stream. Good springs are scarce in this county, but excellent water may be obtained by digging for it, at an average depth of 30 feet. A good idea as to the value of this county m ay be inferred from the fact that a large portion of it was "claimed up" within 24 hours after permission to occupy was granted.
Oskaloosa is the county seat, situated near the geographical centre and upon what is called the Narrows. It is so called, from the fact of its being situated between the Des Moines and Skunk river, and its proximity to the timber of these rivers on either side, which gives it the appearance of being located on a narrow neck of land. Although it is only four years since the first house was built in Oskaloosa, it now contains some 60 or 70 good buildings, a court house, two hotels, four stores, two groceries and several mechanical shops. In the vicinity of the town, there are some well cultivated farms, much better than one would suppose, considering that only four years have elapsed since the first settlements were made.
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MARION COUNTY, is situated immediately west of Mahaska, and is looked upon as inferior to none in the "Purchase." It was organized on the 1st of September, 1845; since when, it has rapidly increased in population. It is a well-wooded county, numerous groves of timber, occurring at convenient distances for agricultural purposes. The soil for the most part is good and capable of producing excellent crops of wheat, corn, and all the productions of a northern latitude. The face of the country is broken, and in places even hilly, though considerable tracts of level land intervene upon what are termed the "Divides." A remarkable feature of this county will be found in the banks of all the streams that meander thro' it; they are generally so steep and abrupt, that but few points can be found that are suitable for fords; and hence it is no easy matter at the present time to travel through the country, except upon the public roads. Bituminous coal of an excellent quality is found in almost all of these banks, as also large quantities of sulphur and iron ore. I am unable to decide whether there are any other kinds of minerals; but from the conformation of the surface, I am inclined to think that there are. It is very certain that one of our company found a small piece of float mineral, though we could discover but the one piece. There are many very excellent stone quarries to be met with, and in some places a kind of flat stone, admirably calculated for whet stones, on account of its softness and fine grit.
Several good streams meander through the county. The Des Moines river runs through the county in a southeast direction and receives as tributaries Cedar, English, White Breast, Honey, and Walnut Creeks. White Breast and Cedar have many branches, and some of considerable size. The two latter streams afford many valuable mill sites, although at the present time (Aug. 2d, 1847) the water is very low. Like almost every other part of our State, the best timber will be found along the margin of rivers. About eight miles from Knoxville, and bordering on the White Breast, is a very fine body of timber known as the Rich Woods; it is about 12 miles in extent and three in breadth and consists of oak, white-oak, red oak, burr oak, linn, black-walnut, buck-eye, maple, and sugar tree. The north fork of White Breast runs through the Rich Woods in a N.E. direction. There are several good farms already made here and many more desirable locations to be yet had.
Knoxville, the county seat of Marion, is pleasantly located upon a high prairie, and is about one and one half miles from the geographical center of the county. It contains several houses, 1 store, 1 hotel, a post office and a large frame court house.
Red Rock, eight and one-half miles northwest from Knoxville, is a small town upon the bank of the Des Moines. It is located upon a timbered bottom and presents quite a romantic appearance. It contains about 20 houses, 2 stories, 1 grocery, 1 hotel and several mechanical shops. At about a quarter of a mile from the town is the celebrated Red Rock, or the point from which the old Indian boundary line commenced. It began at this rock and ran due south to the Missouri river, and due north to the neutral grounds. All the country west of this line was occupied by the Indians until the 11th of October, 1845, at which time they were required by the terms of the treaty to move west of the Missouri.
I should be pleased to give the reader a faint idea of the scenery in the vicinity of Red Rock, were it in my power to do so, but for this undertaking I should need the graphic pen of an Irving or the vivid imagination of a Lippard (George Lippard?) to do justice to the space. Here Nature is seen in every form, along the river bottom, both wind and water seem to have conspired to uproot and level down the sturdiest trees, and to have thrown them in wild confusion amongst the standing timber, conveying the idea of a Red River raft upon dry land; while in the distance, and upon the margin of the valley, stupendous rocks and overhanging cliffs, gaily festooned with running vines and creeping moss, and a thousand varieties of stinted shrubs and diminutive trees form a bold outline to the valley below.
As for the Rock itself, I could see nothing so very remarkable about it, except its color, which is quite red and very soft, and its singular projection above and over part of the river; a very good port, thought I, for a flat boat in a heavy shower of rain. But Red Rock must and will have a celebrity, if for no other reason, because it is red and because several important personages have already identified their existence by means of carved initials upon is crest.
But aside from all jest, the scenery in the vicinity is inimitably grand, and might challenge a comparison with the romantic Hudson of foaming Niagra. Red Rock is situated in Town. No. 11, Range 20 West, near the mouth of "White Breast Fork."
The most extensive settlements of this county will be found in the vicinity of the two last mentioned towns, and along the different streams, particularly White Breast and English, although there are many others there besides. There are also several mills in operation, though as yet upon a limited scale. The whole county may be said to abound with bituminous coal of a most excellent quality. It is most observable along the banks of streams, where it appears in the form of a stratum averaging from four to eight feet thick. I have no doubt these strata or veins extend far back into the hills, and at some day will be the medium of inexhaustible wealth to the inhabitants.
Game is very abundant; deer may be found upon almost every prairie; and as for turkies, it is a common occurrence to meet droves of them, containing from ten to fifty. Wild honey is found in the greatest profusion; indeed bee hunting, as they call it, amounts to almost an industry to many of the settlers; they spend more time at this business than they do in cultivating their farms; it is true they are sweetly rewarded, but their farms are neglected; of course, but a small portion of the settlers are included in this catalogue. I was informed by an old man that within the last two years he had found more than 150 bee trees; and judging from the number of bee stands in his yard, I had no reason to dispute his veracity.
There are no Indian settlements now in the "Purchase," and the only vestiges of them that now remain are their grave yards and wickeups, which are still standing, as when they were want to occupy them. Of wild or ravenous animals there are few; occasionally a bear or panther makes his appearance, but the well-trained hound, of which every settler has two or three, is quickly upon his trail, and the unerring rifle soon puts him out of all harms way; wild cats and wolves are more plenty, and cause considerable trouble and annoyance, being particularly fond of young pigs and chickens. All the wild fruit common to the north grows in great abundance in Marion, and in the corn-gorwing line is equal to Ohio and Indiana.
By the way, Marion will shortly become an important part of the Democracy of the State; for, besides being thoroughly democratic ever since her organization, she is about to receive an acquisition of a thousand Hollanders, who have purchased two entire townships, and who are on their way there at the present time. Of course, as these people are foreigners, they must become Democrats. A Mr. Post, who is a minister, I believe, is their agent; he resides at Fairfield, and I should think is a very worthy man. Marion county holds out many inducements to emigrants; there are plenty of first-rate claims to be yet taken up, or if they wish improved ones, there is always an opportunity to buy.
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POLK COUNTY, north and west of Marion, is one of the best timbered counties in the State, and is well watered by the Des Moines, Raccoon, Skunk and the Three Rivers. The face of the country is rolling and the soil generally good. A shot distance above the juncture of the Raccoon and Des Moines, is the old Fort, or Fort Des Moines, as it is called. This Fort was evacuated by the U.S. Dragoons on the 10th of March, 1846. Since that time, a town has sprung up, numbering within its limits some 150 inhabitants who are engaged in the various branches of trade and mechanical arts.
The surrounding country is thickly inhabited, creating in the mind of the traveler, as he moves along, wonder and astonishment that a country so lately inhabited should have as extensive improvements and thriving farms. There are few counties that present more inducements to the emigrant that this; having an abundance of timber, with almost any amount of water privileges, it must become a point of great importance, and at no distant day either. Excellent claims may be had in this county for the trouble of staking them out and putting up a cabin, or improved claims may be bought for very small amounts. The population is estimated at 1,500.
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WARREN COUNTY borders upon Marion, but is inferior to the above-mentioned counties as an agricultural district on account of a preponderance of prairie, although the soil is first-rate. It is watered on the north by the two lower rivers, both good mill streams, and on the south by "White Breast," as also by Coal Creek, which heads in Warren and runs parallel with the boundary line between this and Marion. There are not many settlements in this county; and if we except a few that are made along the two Lower Rivers and on White Breast, the whole of it may be said to be unoccupied. The best bodies of timber will be found in the neighborhood of streams, particularly bordering upon White Breast. Warren is attached to Marion for judicial purposes.
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LUCAS COUNTY may be classed amongst the best for agricultural purposes, the prairie and timber are well divided, and the soil first-rate. The face of the country is high and rolling, and it is watered by numerous streams and rivulets. On the north it is watered by English, and on the south by the South Fork of the White Breast, and in the northwest by the North Fork of White Breast. The North Fork of Cedar heads in Lucas and meanders through the entire county. Chariton river flows through the southwest part of the county. Most of these streams are capable of propelling either mills or machinery. The Mormon Trace passed through Lucas. Mr. John Ballard and a Mr. Davis are the only settlers in Lucas; but several families from Ohio are expected to move their this ensuing. Mr. Ballard is one of the most successful bee hunters in the Purchase, having found at different times more than 500 bee trees. Were I locating in the "Purchase," my choice would fall upon Lucas, inasmuch as claims of all descriptions are easily obtained, and because springs are more abundant than in the adjoining counties; besides, there is an abundance of excellent coal. Lucas was formerly the favorite hunting grounds of the Pottowatamies. It is attacked to Marion (actually Monroe) for judicial purposes.
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While viewing the country I have thus briefly and imperfectly described, I of course was very often led to contrast it with the "high bluffs and deep ravines" of the north; and I must honestly confess that my preference is decidedly for the latter. If I had no other motive for this preference than that of enjoying good health, it alone would confirm my choice; for, in spite of all our predilections in favor of the "Purchase," it must be acknowledged that it has a good chance of intermittent and bilious fevers. As far as beauty of landscape, eligibility of location and plentifulness of timber are concerned, the "Purchase" has the advantage; but in other respects, it will bear no comparison, nor will time every supply what nature has not done. That noble river that unceasingly rolls on his bright waters to the Gulf of Mexico, and ere he has gone, sends a parting adieu to our shores, is worth more as a medium of communication and interchange of commodities than an hundred inland roads, or slack water rivers. A home market is very good while there are few inhabitants, and a constant influx of emigrants; but this state of things will not continue long; the country will settle up, and in a short time there will be more producers than consumers; and then it will be found that the northern part of our State, any of which is more contiguous to the river than the "Purchase," will be far the most flourishing as well as the most populous. That the New Purchase is a very desirable portion of our State, no sane man will deny; but that it offers as many inducements to the emigrant as the north is utterly untrue and ridiculous. It is true it abounds with coal; but at the present it has no value, because it cannot be transported, and as regards water privileges, where under the sun do you find them more abundant than along our numerous streams and rivers. However, the "Purchase" will go ahead; it is a good body of land, taken all together, and it already possesses a number of enterprising, go-a-head settlers, who are capable of giving it both character and notoriety.
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