Chariton's city manager, Laura Liegois, has spent quite a bit of time during the last few months commuting to and from her former home in Muscatine while her family wraps up obligations there and prepares to move southwest. That's a fairly quick trip in this day and age.
But back in the summer of 1866, had she accepted a similar job in Lucas County, the trip would have taken two days --- one way. From Muscatine to Burlington by packet boat, from Burlington to Eddyville by train and from Eddyville to Chariton by stagecoach.
The gentleman who wrote the following account of his July 1866 journey is unidentified. He was from Tipton, seat of Cedar County just north of Muscatine, and that's where his trip began. The report was published in The Tipton Advertiser of July 26, 1866.
Rail access to Lucas County at the time was available only as far as Eddyville, where construction had stalled at the outset of the Civil War. The first passenger train would not roll into Chariton until July of 1867.
And quite obviously Chariton failed to impress. I'll have to check with Laura to see if she encountered any bare-footed waiters in Chariton; also to seek her first opinions of Lucas County coffee and biscuits. Here's the report:
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Having had a little business in the southern part of the State, I left the quiet city of Tipton on the morning of July 10th, and after a lovely ride in my buggy, of four hours and forty minutes, I arrived at Muscatine. About 5 p.m., I took passage in the packet, "City of Keithsburg," Capt. Campbell. Here I had the pleasure of meeting my genial friend and fellow townsman, Dr. P.T. Smith, and a number of other gentlemen of the Dental persuasion, among them Dr. Tulloss, of pleasant memory, who were on their way to Burlington to attend the Iowa State Dental Association. I have the pleasure of testifying that I have never in an assemblage of so many professional men (clergymen excepted) seen a finer looking and better behaved set of men. I fear very much that as many gathered promiscuously from the medical and legal professions, would not have deported themselves as gentlemanly. I did not, on the whole trip, hear a profane or obscene word, or see anyone drinking or under the influence of strong drink.
The ride down the "Father of Waters" was exceedingly pleasant, though the heavy growth of timber along the river prevented us from seeing much of the country beyond its banks. My mind ran back to the many scenes of historic interest that have lately occurred along its waters, and I thought as I looked down that noble stream, no wonder the people of the great Northwest rose in their might and said that it belonged to the Nation, and that it should flow unobstructed and uninterrupted until it empties its waters into the Gulf of Mexico.
On our way we passed Port Louisa, in Louisa county, Iowa, and New Boston, Keithsburg, and Oquawka, in Illinois. The three last named places are built on the immense sand banks with scarcely a blade of vegetation to be seen.
Opposite New Boston, the Captain called attention to a craft anchored in the river, called the "Floating Palace" --- one of those dens of disease and licentiousness where disease and disgrace, like twin sisters, go hand in hand. To the credit of Iowa, he said that when they anchored off Ft. Madison and Burlington they were informed by the city authorities to leave immediately, stating that they and their craft would be sunk if they didn't. It is needless to say that they made haste to escape the righteous indignation of the people. They have, however, plied their nefarious trade at Oquawka, Keithsburg and New Boston without molestation.
I arrived at Burlington and put up at the Barrett House. Had an opportunity, by gas-light, of running about the city some. It is one of the finest, briskest business places I have been in in Iowa or west of Chicago. The buildings are of a good substantial character, and they seem to be doing a large business.
I left the next morning about 5 o'clock on the Burlington & Missouri River Railroad for Ottumwa. On my way, I passed through Mt. Pleasant, Fairfield and a number of smaller towns in Des Moines, Henry, Jefferson and Wapello counties. I arrived at Ottumwa about noon, and went thence on the Des Moines Valley Railroad to Eddyville, 12 miles distant. I had a miserable dinner here at the Slemmens House --- on cold potatoes.
At 2:30 p.m. I took passage with the Western Stage Line Company, for Chariton --- 45 miles distant. On my way I passed through Albia in Monroe County, and through Stacyville, where I was shown a large stone edifice --- 60 x 100 feet --- partially completed, and known as the Fenian Headquarters. They tell me this town of Stacyville is Fenian throughout. Stopped the the post office, which is a dry goods and grocery store, with a beer saloon in the rear. Called for a drink of water. Was informed that the article wasn't kept there. A fellow passenger, almost famished for a drink, called for a beer and offered to treat me, which I very respectfully declined in view of pressing obligations elsewhere. (Note, Stacyville now is known as Georgetown and the stone edifice was the incomplete St. Patrick's Catholic Church.)
Thence to LaGrange, in Lucas county, and finally to Chariton, where we arrived at midnight on Wednesday. Stopped here at the Chariton House, "the finest House in the city." It proved one of the most miserable apologies for a public house I ever saw. It literally abounded with bed-bugs and badly cooked victuals. The chief waiter was an ill-shaped specimen of the male biped commonly called man. He was stooped, had hideous features and an idiotic stare; and when passing "beef steak, sir!" he displayed a pair of the dirtiest and most highly odoriferous naked feet it was every my misfortune to encounter. The female waiters were quite as dirty, apparently, but kept their shoes on, which I admired in them very much. A well dressed Baptist friend, who was a fellow passenger in the stage and who was rooming with me, went into verbal extravagances when descanting upon the biscuits and coffee. It does seem so strange that people will pretend to keep a "first-class hotel," and yet not know how to make a decent cup of coffee or a digestible pan of biscuit.
This being the extent of my journey, as soon as I had my breakfast I went to the Court House and soon dispatched my business. The Court House is in rather a dilapidated condition --- will bear no comparison with ours.
Hired a livery rig and drove seven miles into the country to look after some land interests for a friend. The country here is very rugged compared with our beautiful Cedar county. It is good farming and grazing land, however. Stone, timber, water and coal seem quite plentiful.
Chariton is destined to be a good business point. They expect to have the Burlington & Missouri River Railroad completed to this place in the course of the winter. It is now finished a few miles beyond Ottumwa. I saw, in passing along in the stage from Eddyville to Chariton, that in a number of places they were busily at work, and huge piles of ties are at Ottumwa awaiting the completion of the bridge across the Des Moines river, when they will be run out on the cars and laid down at once.
Chariton has ten doctors, ten or twelve lawyers, two select schools, besides a common school, and quite a number of business places. They claim a population of 2,000; I think, however, that 800 might be much nearer the truth. The country is filling up rapidly; land is raising in value from $5, former price, to $10 and $15 per acre. Town property is very high, with an upward tendency. Chariton formerly was the location of the land office for the southern district of this State, and was known as Chariton Post (Chariton Point).
Having my business affairs settled up, I had the pleasure of leaving my barefooted friend and of enduring the melting discomforts of a ride in a crowded stage to Eddyville, where I arrived about two hours after midnight. In my next, I will write concerning Ottumwa, Mt. Pleasant and the Insane Asylum, which I visited; and I would recommend my readers, in the meanwhile, to remain satisfied that they are citizens of noble old Cedar.
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